NEW BIKE? HERE WHAT ELSE YOU MIGHT NEED…
Once you’ve rounded up the essentials (helmet, pump, seat pack, patch kit, spare tube, tire levers, mini tool, cycling shorts, gloves, jersey, shoes/pedals), these accessories will make your cycling even more enjoyable.
Floor pump: The frame pump (often called a “mini-pump”) is essential for emergencies on the road and trail, but for everyday use you’ll want a floor pump. It’ll make short work of airing your tires and save wear and tear on the frame pump.
Cyclo-computer: One of the joys of cycling is being able to cover lots of ground and a cyclo-computer can tell you how far, how fast and how long you’ve ridden. Some even have extra functions such as heart rate, cadence (how fast you’re pedaling), altitude, and temperature. There are wireless models for a super clean installation too.
Vehicle (car) rack: The trails or roads you bike aren’t always riding distance away, so you may want a rack designed to easily and safely transport your bike on your car, van, truck or SUV. Which one you get depends on how many bikes you’ll carry and on the type of vehicle you drive. Ask us to recommend the right rack for you.
Hydration system: Water bottles and cages are adequate for carrying drinks. But, hydration systems are a great option for quenching your thirst. Insulation keeps your beverage of choice cooler (or warmer) longer and the drinking tube makes sipping more convenient. The capacity on larger systems is almost twice as much as you can carry in two large bottles, too. And, the hydration pack provides a place to stash food, ID, small tools and more.
Eyewear: Don’t forget to protect your eyes with sunglasses designed for cycling. It’s not just glare you should be concerned about; airborne debris from passing vehicles is hazardous, too. Quality shades provide increased safety, including slightly higher brow coverage for when you’re bent over. And the UV protection means less fatigue at the end of long days in the saddle.
Lock: Security for your bike is important. Get a good lock and always use it correctly to prevent the heartbreak of bike theft.
Socks: Even something as simple as socks can enhance your riding if they’re specifically made for cycling. Ours are, and they breathe, wick and reduce friction for maximum comfort on every ride. They also look very cool.
Our staff can suggest other great accessories and help prioritize your purchases.
CORRECT TYRE PRESSURE IMPROVE YOUR RIDE!
How much tire pressure should you run? Start by trying the manufacturer’s recommended pressure, which you’ll find printed on the tire sidewall (it’s often on a small label but it might be molded into the casing, too, so look closely). This suggested inflation range is a good starting point. If it’s a wide range, for example 40 to 60 psi, experiment to find which pressure works and feels best.
Pump Road Rubber More, Knobbies Less
The most common mistakes are riding with too little pressure in road tires and too much pressure in off-road rubber. The former happens because road treads don’t have a lot of air volume. Sure, road tires are pumped up to high pressures. But, because they’re skinny tires, there’s hardly any air inside. Consequently, even if only a little leaks out (most bicycle tubes are made of butyl rubber, which is porous and naturally seeps air), the pressure and volume are greatly reduced. To prevent this, check tire pressure on a road bike before every ride. If you don’t, you’ll be riding on soft tires, which is asking for trouble. More about this in a minute.
Off-road rubber is inflated to lower pressures and because the tires are much wider than road models, there’s considerably more air inside. These differences mean that fat tires don’t seep air very quickly so they don’t require frequent inflation the way skinny tires do. Unfortunately, the tendency is to over inflate off-road tires. By all means, if you’re riding your fat tires exclusively on pavement and smooth surfaces, inflate them as hard as you like (don’t exceed the manufacturer’s maximum recommendation).
Go Low
If you’re riding off road, however, seriously consider lower pressures — in the 35- to 45-psi range, depending on the terrain and your weight. This will greatly increase your control and comfort over trails while improving traction and handling. Indeed, if you’ve been riding off-road on 50 to 60 psi, you’ll be amazed at the difference.
How Low Is Too Low
Just, don’t go too low. That’ll increase the risk of a flat two ways (this holds true for road and off-road rubber): First, softer tires pick up more debris, which may work into the tires popping the tubes. Second, when you hit holes, ruts, rocks, etc, soft tires can deform to the point that the rim hits the ground or rock so hard that it pinches the tube (between the rim and obstacle) and cuts it in two places, which is what’s known as a pinch flat or snakebite puncture (because the holes in the tube resemble a snakebite). Besides damaging the tube, this impact can bend the rim, leading to an expensive repair. Under-inflated tires also lack the sidewall rigidity needed for hard cornering. And, too-soft tires wear quicker.
Road Rating
But this doesn’t mean you should always inflate road tires to the maximum pressure. Roads in the real world aren’t billiard-table smooth. The jarring effect of bumpy pavement on over-inflated tires robs energy and makes for a bone-rattling ride. Properly inflated tires will roll over bumpy roads smoother and faster and get you home without shaking loose your dental work. On ultra-smooth roads, however, when rolling resistance is critical, such as in a time-trial or triathlon, go as high as 140 psi if your tires are rated to take it. Stay at the lower end of the pressure zone for comfort and rough roads.
CONSIDERING A PUMP? GET THE RIGHT ONE…
No one want to be stuck, away from home, with a flat tire. That’s what makes a frame pump such a popular and essential accessory. There are two types of frame pumps, those made for off road and those made for road biking. The difference has to do with the difference in tires. Off-road tires are fatter, require more volume and are run at lower pressures. Conversely, road tires are skinnier and take less air, but at much higher pressures. Frame pumps are designed for these differences.
Big Barrel Versus Small Barrel
For example, off-road pumps typically feature larger-diameter barrels (aluminum barrels are best), which thrust more air into the tube with each stroke. Road pumps have the opposite, a narrow barrel that pushes less air in. This smaller-diameter barrel, though, makes it possible to insert higher pressures because you’re pushing less air in with each stroke.
Check The Chuck
The pump head (also called the chuck) is important, too. Choose a pump with a head that quickly converts between Presta and Schrader valves if you have bikes in the family with both valve types (illustration) or want to be prepared for everything (you might get a chance to rescue some other cyclist whose pump fails). Some pumps automatically adapt to the appropriate valve. Another clever new frame-mount pump design includes a convertible head, plus a T-handle, fold-down feet and a long, flexible hose, features that turn the inflator into a veritable take-along floor pump!
Mighty Minis
Not all pumps fit all frames. If you’re not sure what to get, ride your bike in so we can take a look and recommend a pump. Usually, mini pumps fit best because they come with a bracket that attaches to the bottle-cage screws. Once this bracket is installed, you just snap the pump into it to hold it securely (sometimes there’s a little Velcro strap to help keep the pump in place). Or, you might prefer to carry your mini in your hydration pack or your jersey pocket (this can get uncomfortable on long rides).
Some Suspension Gets Pumped, Too
A special type of pump you might need is one designed for suspension forks and rear shocks. These have very small-diameter barrels, gauges that may go as high as 300 psi and bleed valves to let small amounts of air out of the shock for fine-tuning the setting. These special tools are important if your bike is equipped with air shocks because regular frame pumps usually cannot achieve high-enough pressures.
Floor Pumps Rule
For all-round ease and speed of use, versatility and durability, few cyclists ever regret also owning a floor pump. Weight and compactness isn’t an issue for something you carry in your trunk or store in your home, so these are designed with larger barrels, two-hand handles and sturdy stand-on bases to deliver larger amounts of air with each stroke. The better ones have a gauge you can view at a glance and are made from high-quality metals and composites. The best of this type will be serviceable for a lifetime of use. Use yours before every ride and save your frame pump or carry-along inflator for on-ride emergencies.
If you’re still not sure what you need in an inflation device, check our excellent selection or ask us. We’re pump pros!
ADVANTAGES OF FOLDING TYRES
Folding tires (illustration) make a significant difference in handling and ride quality. For example, there’s road rubber that uses special materials and construction to improve the suppleness of the tire, resulting in a much smoother ride. And, there are models designed for sky-high pressures, which on super-smooth surfaces, reduce rolling resistance and assist all-out racing efforts. And all folding tires are lighter for improved climbing and acceleration.
Carry A Spare
An often-overlooked advantage of these folding road tires is that it’s easy to carry a spare. Folders pack small enough to fit in a seat bag, jersey pocket or suitcase (when you travel with your bike). This means that you can easily carry a replacement if you’re concerned that one of your tires is ready to fail.
Easy On And Off
You’ll also find that folding tires, both road and dirt models, are usually easier to remove and install. This is because the Kevlar beads are more flexible and because the tires stretch slightly with use.
Innovations In Off-Road Rubber
Interestingly, the biggest advance in tire technology recently is the advent of tubeless off-road tires. These still use air, but like car tires, an airtight seal is formed at the rim to eliminate the need for a tube and rim strip. Although they usually require the use of a special rim, these tires are gaining in popularity because you can run lower pressures than with conventional tires with no risk of pinch flatting.
The soft pressure, combined with a suppleness that results from the elimination of the friction between the tube and the tire, allows tubeless knobbies to grip better in corners and provide more suspension and speed over stutter bumps, roots and rough terrain. Climbing traction improves a lot, too. And, in the event of a puncture, the construction of these new tubulars is such that air leaks out slower than with a conventional tire and tube — usually slow enough to ride home. Plus, if you get a flat that releases the air immediately, you can easily fix the tire by installing a regular tube and inflating as with normal tires and tubes.
Just ask and we’ll be happy to show you the latest in tire technology.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT TREAD
While road-tire treads are strikingly similar, off-road tires come in so many models it can be confusing, initially, trying to pick one out. The key to making a successful choice of either tire type is selecting the appropriate tire for the terrain you’ll be riding.
Tires For The Road
Looking for a little added traction from a road tire? Consider getting one with traction grooves, which some experts believe provide added control in wet and dry conditions. (Other experts claim that road tires are so narrow that any tread placed on them has a negligible effect. We’ll help you decide, based upon our own experiences.) Innovative modern clincher casings can provide an extremely lively and resilient ride, comparable to what you would expect from a premium tubular (a type of tire used by professional racers where the tube is actually sewn inside). A new rubber compound, silica, is found in quite a few new upper-end road tires. Silica improves adhesion and lowers rolling resistance without sacrificing tread durability.
Off-Road Tires: Tubes Or Tubeless?
When buying new tires, first determine if your bike uses standard tube tires, which contain an inner tube inside the tire, or if yours use the tubeless type, which don’t include tubes. The illustration shows how these tire types differ.
Tubeless tires do away with tubes by using a special rim, tire and rim strip that seals the tire so an inner tube isn’t necessary (though you can use one if you wish). The advantage of tubeless tires is being able to run lower tire pressures, which provides additional traction, control and comfort. This is possible because there’s no tube to damage should you hit a pothole or rock and bottom out the tire.
If there’s a disadvantage to tubeless tires, it’s that they are a bit more fussy, and because there’s no tube, if there’s even a small leak, you have to figure out where it’s coming from and how to fix it whereas on a standard tire and tube set-up, you can easily patch or replace the tube to repair leaks.
Off-Road-Tire Tread For Soft Conditions
For soft conditions, loose rock, and loose climbs, pick a fairly wide tire with tall, broad, paddle-like knobs. It’s important that the tread’s knobs have a stable base, for traction when you lean them over on a hard surface. Tread that is overly flimsy can also lead to durability problems. Tires for soft conditions are usually front- or rear-wheel specific.
Off-Road-Tire Tread For Hardpack
For hardpacked surfaces, there are tires that have closely spaced small knobs, and sometimes no center knobs at all. They can be narrower than soft-condition tires as well. If there are rocks strewn into your hardpack, use a smooth but wide tire. Another key to getting a good hardpack tire is making sure that the knob is at least twice as wide at the base as it is tall. If it’s too tall, the tire will deflect under hard cornering loads.
Off-Road-Tire Tread For Mud
If you think you may encounter mud on a trail with few options for avoiding it, the key is to use narrow tires with widely spaced lugs. Wider tires will jam your frame stays and fork with mud. Narrow tires can also penetrate through the soft mud on top and reach the harder ground below for better traction. Choose longer knobs for more grip, or shallower knobs for lower rolling resistance where there’s no mud.
We’ve got a wide selection of tires for any situation. Talk with us and we’ll point you in the right direction.
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